Scotland Easter 2010
Scotland March - April 2010
This was our first trip up to Scotland in 2010 we booked return flyby flights from Birmingham international airport to Inverness of course this was just the main part of our journey we still had to arrange return rail travel from Oxford to Birmingham international and from Inverness to Elgin and not forgetting the taxi from Inverness airport to Inverness train station and from Elgin train station to Allison’s mum’s. We set out in good faith that this would be a problem free journey and well worth the extra expense incurred on this style of travel for the convenience of spending less time travelling - saving time is of the essence but is it worth chucking good money at time saving means of transport – only if the mode of travel is reliable and the answer to this is no its very unreliable all kinds of factors pop up.
We arrived in plenty of time for our flight we booked in and went to the restaurant to eat and after we had time to read the papers and relax before our flight what flight – we have been here before on the same route our flight was delayed and delayed again and then again before we took off all the advantages of taking the plain had been wasted we arrived in Inverness after the train we wanted had left and we have a two hour wait to add to our discomfort there are no services open on Inverness train station the loos are closed the waiting room was cold, and unwelcoming it was the last place you wanted to be stuck at for a couple of hours. On a bitter cold evening with snow laying deep on the hills but clear in the towns
Inverness is a city I really enjoy visiting and I will go out my way to travel on this route and visit the town I don’t feel that I have been in the Scotland unless I make it to the capital of the highlands its steeped in history from factual to made up romantic stuff woven and intermixed with a blend of storytelling and drama and I think the tourist love hearing and experiencing it – And in some respects that’s what they want to see I am greatly disappointed if I do not see someone wearing the national dress or hear the pipes, whisky and haggis and tartan are the outer hall marks with other markers as well.
Leaving Allison at the train station I ventured out into the town to take some evening photographs of the river ness and the castle I had a great time but I was bothered some by the bitter cold it was a big shock to the system we had left a wonderful mild sunny day behind and walked into Narnia a wonderful winter wonderland as the shadows slowly grew longer and darker the streets around the river ness and by the castle grew very atmospheric it was easy to imagine that hiding in the dark closes off the high street were redcoat soldiers searching the streets and alley ways hunting down the Jacobite highlander the red coat solider intent on taking no quarter and the Jacobite fleeing for his life. I rejoined Allison at the train station and we took the Inverness train to Aberdeen getting off at Elgin after a short taxi ride we arrived at Allison’s mum’s. Who was entertaining our son Peter.
Day 1
I woke in the night and I thought it was light outside so I took a peek out the curtains to be greeted by a winter scene it was snowing heavy and laying on the ground I soon returned to my warm bed. After breakfast Peter and I walk through the snow to the train station we were booked onto the Inverness to Aberdeen train due to the poor weather condition our train was delayed in the past snow has not been a big problem on this route however flooding is a historical problem and with the railway track at the train station being submerged in water after the river Lossie has burst its banks.
The train left Elgin for Aberdeen but our journey was very slow and we were often at a standstill and then we were on the move again as we got further into speyside the snow became deeper and the country side was covered in a deep layer of snow we finally arrived in Aberdeen safe and sound Peter and I went for lunch at a restaurant at the train station after lunch we walked down to the harbour it was bitter cold and we took some picture and made our way to the Aberdeen Maritime Museum to dry our cameras and to get a warm up and hot drink after visiting the museum and taking some photo’s from advantage points in the museum of the harbour we went for a walk in Aberdeen itself and then made our way to the train station.
We left Aberdeen on the Inverness train but once we got past Aberdeen and into the countryside things began to change for the worse we soon arrived at Inch train station and due to frozen points we were unable to continue to Inverness there was only one way the train could go and that was back to Aberdeen between Dyce and Aberdeen we contacted my daughter and she booked us into the jury inn Aberdeen the hotel was great four star’s all bells and whistles we went to Frankie and Bennies for dinner and star bucks for hot chocolate and coffee before returning to our hotel for the night we laid on our beds watching tv before going to bed.
As we slept safe and snug in our beds the hotel staff was at hand to take care of our wants and wishes the storm across Scotland grew wilder casing disruption to overnight travellers regardless of the mode of travel. With major travel disruption between Edinburgh and Inverness one train came to a Holt in the Drumochter moor pass and got stuck in the deep snow drifts the train its crew and passengers all needed to be rescued not an easy task for the rescuers and I am sure from the early morning new reports that Peter and I saw all stranded passengers had endured a very uncomfortable night and were only to pleased to arrived at Inverness and to get some rest at the station hotel before continuing their journey.
Day 2
After breakfast Peter and I made our way to Aberdeen train station it came as no surprise to us that the train station information boards were announcing that all trains were delayed check for further information we made our way to the ticket sale’s and booking office This was to be the only time we would witness Scot rails customers being treated in a disrespectful and rude manner by Scot rail staff. It soon became very evident that the possibility of the line between Aberdeen and Inverness being open due to frozen points at inch station was not going to be resolved any time soon and we thought that at this stage in the day we would be wiser if we checked at the coach station to see if the Aberdeen to Inverness coach was running as this followed the coastal route and stood a good chance of being open. In contrast to the scot rail staff the stage coach staff went out there way to help the stranded train customers offering advice and assistance to our delight the coastal route was open and a coach was due to leave within half an hour some hours later we arrived safely back to Elgin if a day late.
Day 3
After breakfast Peter and I made our way to Elgin train station we were booked on the train from Elgin to Inverness there we were to expect some travel disruption as alternative trains were cancelled however the one we were booked onto was going to run if only delayed by half an hour our journey to Inverness went smoothly once in Inverness Peter and I took advantage of the free time to take some photographs of the castle and river ness before going for lunch at the highland view restaurant after lunch we made our way to the Inverness coach station we had pre booked onto a boat trip down loch ness Called Discovery this promised a 3.5 hour coach and cruise of Loch Ness with 1 hour at Urquhart Castle
- Spend one and a half hours cruising the Loch and the Caledonian Canal
- look for hidden happenings beneath the water with the new Jacobite sonar
- Visit Urquhart Castle and its fascinating Visitor Centre
- All admissions included in the ticket price
- Enjoy a guided coach tour
Sounds great and it lived up to its advertisement Peter and I had a great time and we made the most of the photo opportunity that this trip brought our way it’s one thing to travel down the loch on the road stopping at advantage points to admire the view but it’s much better to be on the loch in a boat our first view of Urquhart castle were breath taking all my photographs can be seen at the following link http://www.flickr.com/photos/m3jfm/collections/
Day 4
Peter and I walked into Elgin and we visit the Elgin model railway exhibition at the town hall this an annual event and one we have been to in the past this time however there was fewer exhibitors by trade stands and model lay outs but we have an interesting time and took a few photo’s of the lay outs that took our interest. After lunch Peter and I took the local town bus from Elgin down speyside to Dufftown we had heard reports that the snow was very deep down speyside and we wanted to see for ourselves also a visit to Glenfiddich distillery makes an for an interesting diversion on all accounts we were not to be disappointed the tour of Glenfiddich was very interesting afterwards Peter and I enjoyed afternoon tea Scottish highland style in the new Glenfiddich distillery restaurant. Afterwards we walked in the snow from the distillery up into Dufftown before returning to Elgin on the bus. Once in Elgin we changed buses and went down to Lossiemouth all in same afternoon we walked in the snow on speyside and in the sunshine on Lossiemouth beach.
Day 5
Sadly it was time to make the return trip home Allison and I took the train from Elgin to Inverness and a taxi from Inverness to the airport I had a hour free to spend taking some photo’s in old Inverness and the castle before heading to the airport our return trip was problem free Inverness - Birmingham then train back to Oxford. Peter remained for a few more days at Grans and took advantage of returning to Lossie to take some more photos.
to be continued
Scotland August 2009.
Our last trip to the Scottish highlands was eighteen weeks ago and this is our third trip this year I guess we can claim to be seasoned travellers on this route over the years we have completed the journey on the train going up on the west coast and returning on the east coast. And we had done the journey many times from London to Inverness during the day. However the best way to travel on the train for sure must be on the Caledonian sleeper be warned it’s not cheap but well worth every penny. The worst way to travel is over night from London Victoria coach station to Inverness travelling on national express coaches it’s a very affordable way to travel the last time Allison and I did the journey we paid £4 each return.
As always we allow ourselves plenty of time to travel to the airport. As we headed south on the M25 there had been an accident between a white van and a car the emergency services were already at the scene and as we crawled pass the police were closing the motor way. The driver of the car seemed ok put could well have been in shock. However the white van was laid over on the driver’s side trapping the driver inside the vehicle. Needless to say both vehicles were in a mess however we did wonder about the safety of both drivers human life cannot be replaced.
On the Sunday we had completed the pre-flight book in one line so it was just a case of arriving handing over our luggage and heading straight to departure going through the normal security checks bag search and body search all this is just the normal experience of travelling by plane. At baggage check in we meet a young woman about our daughter’s age during her gap year she had worked on the Island of Coll and after graduating from University she was fortunate to land a full time job on the Island living in the former manse which she shares with a couple of people she enjoys the island life with 250 people never feel’s bored or lonely. Sound’s great when you compare life in parts of the main land when an elderly man or women who for years have lived on their own can die in their own home the bills continue to be paid by direct debit and with no friends family or neighbours who give them the time of day are found to have died at home five years ago.
Once we completed departures Allison and I had a relaxing Lunch of steak and ale pie with all the trimmings washed down with tea and coffee in the Flying horse inn I not sure whether to call it a pub or a restaurant. For the simple reason today you are hard pressed to find a traditional style public house the kind of place your great grandfather might have spent an hour or two in drinking a pint smoking his woodbine fags and playing darts, dominoes or cards with his mates the floor might have been wooden or stone but covered in saw dust.
We boarded flight, BE7325 London Gatwick (LGW) to Inverness (INV) Flight departing 14:35 arriving 16:20 the plane was one of Flybe's new Bombardier Q400 planes, deemed to be among the world's most environmentally friendly passenger aircraft these planes are very comfortable with a single aisle with two leather seat either side of the aisle after the short in flight safety check the flight crew explain what to do in an emergency the cabin crew girls must do this hundreds of times pointing to the floor to show you the lights that will mark the path way to the exits how to put on your life jacket, how to inflate and locate the whistle and pointing out the small white light that is near the top left shoulder.
Followed by how to use your seat belt properly odd that of course because in an emergency folk have died in a plane because when it was time to do this for real they froze in their seats and were unable to undo the seat belt fears an odd thing but with a little training we all have a better chance of getting out of the plane safely in the unlikely event of any thing going wrong. It very comforting to know that once the planes up in the air the next time you see the cabin crew is with the drinks trolley there is something reassuringly British about drinking a cup of tea at 20,000 feet.
We arrive on time at Inverness airport and after I have boarded the plan I ask one of the ground crew for permission to take some photographs of the planes on the ground and outside the terminal building always best to ask as you don’t want to start a security panic.
The photo-shoot was completed and I walked into the terminal building arrivals I quickly packed away my camera as no photography is permitted in this area and in due time our suit cases made their way along the carousal. We took a taxi to Inverness train station the taxi fare and we caught the Inverness to Aberdeen train getting off at Elgin the cost of a single ticket is £9.50 for some reason return fares were withdrawn some years ago. We took at local taxi from Elgin train station to the mother-in-laws.
After feasting on a fine highland dinner of saviour mince and home grown potatoes the dessert was Scottish strawberries and ice cream washed down with coffee Peter suggested that we go for an evening walk in Elgin we walked down “piggies brae” crossing the river Lossie into the cooper park and onto the “lantern of the North” here we spent some time taking photos of the cathedral the evening sun light was doing its best to lighten some of the buildings features that would be missed in full sun light. I also took advantage of taking a few shots of one of the cathedral gates called pansport. Before walking into the town and taking some shots of some of the older buildings we walked the full length of the high street and on the way back we called into the cooperage for a well earned drink we were soon to discover the vast difference between London prices and Highland prices and of course we took advantage of the free wifi.
The following day Tuesday after breakfast Peter and I caught the train to Inverness and took a taxi the five miles or so to the Cuil Lodair this is Gaelic for Culloden the original language of the Highlander I have visited Culloden battle field many times and this is a very moving place for me it is full of atmosphere you can still feel that something very important happened here an horrific event an event who’s outcome changed the face of the highlands forever starting with bloodshed and finished with cold blooded murder, and ethnic cleansing. My first was some time in 1981 we drove up with Allison’s parents at this time the road went through the battle field and the car park was east of the memorial cairn in the car park was a machine that for a pound you could buy a guide book I can clearly remember walking round the Leanach cottage. We also visited again after the visitors centre was opened in 1984 but this was going to be my first visit to the new visitor centre. That was opened by the Queen only a few weeks ago. I thought the visitors centre was great full of interesting material and information regarding the 45’ however I disliked the way in which the 45’ has been sanitised over the years I have spent a lot of time researching the history of the Jacobite up rising and I feel the version that is being told today at the visitors centre is somehow trying to white wash past events.
Peter and I had lunch in the restaurant I had a jacket potato filled with haggis and salad Which I enjoyed very much I loved the way that in the restaurant the signage was in both English and Gallic it was here that I meet a young man who is a college student reading geography he was brought up in the village of Croy and is working in the restaurant as a summer job he told me that 200 of his ancestors stood on the battle field fighting for the Prince they stood on the front line between Glen Garry and Clanranald of course he was from Clan Keppoch. Later I was to explore the battle field and I stood on the front line of the Jacobite army between Clan Fraser and clan Cameron were the Stewarts of Appin and Clan MacLaren had stood it was a very moving experience to stand on the Jacobite front line and to look across the Culloden moor at the path my ancestors took to the red flags marking the English front line. Some time close to noon my ancestors from Clan MacLaren charged thirteen died on the battle field that day 16th April 1746. Peter and I later in the afternoon returned to Inverness were we explored the town before returning to Elgin on the train.
The next day Wednesday Peter and I were up very early we were booked on the train to Edinburgh via Aberdeen returning Edinburgh to Inverness and then back to Elgin. The train journey went as clock work and peter and I sat back on the train and relaxed as the miles slowly passed by. We arrived in Edinburgh before 10am and made our way down the Royal mile to The Palace of Holyroodhouse this was a wonderful experience I was following close in the footsteps of some heroes of main Bonnie Prince Charlie, John Knox, Johnson and Boswell it was just great to stand in the Great hall in 1745 during the Jacobite occupation of Edinburgh Prince Charles Edward Stuart held a ball in this room. We also visited the queen picture gallery. We enjoyed lunch in the palace mews cafe Peter and I dinned on chicken on a bed of haggis with fresh vegetables’ and for dessert we had Danish pastries washed down with pots of tea or coffee.
After lunch we walked along the royal mile stopping to take photo’s of The New Scottish parliament buildings and we visited John Knox house I found the top floor of the house the most interesting as it was laid out as the Scottish reformer might have just left to walked up the royal mile to church. We continued up the royal mile to St Giles cathedral we were know walking in the footsteps of John Knox we took loads of photographs inside the cathedral and took the opportunity to visit John Knox’s grave in parliament squire. From here we walked up the Royal mile to Edinburgh castle for me the most outstanding part of my visit to the castle was seeing for the first time The Honours of Scotland. The Sward of State, the Grown, and the Sceptre. and the stone of destiny. We returned to the train station in time to eat at Burger King before making the return journey to Elgin.
After breakfast the following day we went by taxi to visit Spynie Palace I have been here many times before walking along the course of the Elgin to lossiemouth railway. This is a very interesting place to visit but not as interesting as my first visits before Historic Scotland came on the scene big time cleaned up the site opened the north tower and David’s tower adding signs and windows that distract the view and building a modern cottage on the east side of the building and a wooden visitor centre book shop and place to buy tickets. All spoil the beauty and loneliness of the place.
We had arranged for the taxi to collect us and take us onto lossiemouth we walked along the east beech half way towards the light house a walk I have enjoyed many times and we stopped for lunch in the refurbished and reopened beach cafe. After the lunch we returned to Elgin.
The next day Friday we were up early to catch the 7am train to Inverness Allison and I waved peter off on the 8am London train and we went for a walk into Inverness we went up to the castle and I took some photographs of the view looking down the river ness and over the town. We went up to Debenhams for a full Scottish breakfast I am sure the view from the restaurant windows is one of the finest in any of the Debenhams restaurants. With views to Ben Wyvis and across to the black isle after a relaxing breakfast we went shopping before taking a taxi to Inverness airport for the 12:15 flight to London Gatwick.
Scotland 6th-10th April 2009
Our last family visit to Elgin was just six ago we flew from Birmingham but at the airport we experienced long delays and poor customer service. This time we were booked to fly from London Gatwick to Inverness on
the 19:20 flight. Allison and I travelled to Gatwick on the coach from Oxford but to be honest I wished we had gone by train to the airport. We gave ourselves plenty of time before our flight so that we could have
dinner in one of the restaurants at the airport and read the evening newspapers before boarding the plane.
Our flight to Inverness departed on time and we arrived at Inverness airport on schedule we were met by Allison’s Mum she was looking a lot better than the last time we met and Robert Allison’s brother the drive to Elgin took about an hour. I think Allison was really pleased to be with her family and she seemed a lot happier
Our first full day was Tuesday and after a wonderful full Scottish breakfast I read of the press and journal newspaper Allison and I walked into Elgin to visit the Cathedral “The lantern of the north” well it was in its heyday however time and history has not kind to this former place of worship and today it’s a shadow of its former self. What seemed very strange to me was the fact the sometime in the past it became an offence to pray in the ruins of the cathedral I think this was because of religious bigotry the old religion was Catholic and when this ban was introduced the church had changed its strips to the new religion Robert was right when he said to me that if the cathedral had not been destroyed visitors would travel from far and wide to see it and pay a lot of money to visit it.
Wednesday we woke to a dull overcast and very wet day in fact it poured down with rain. Allison and I went into Elgin and we visited Elgin Museum this is a little gem of a place full of interesting stuff I like the display on the Jacobites and Eglin Cathedral The museum is run by volunteers and they are a pleasure to meet the staff are able to bring the displays to life by adding more information and explaining things a little more in detail if you so wish. The museum also has the best kept loo in town. After visit the museum Allison and I went out for lunch in Elgin and we took advantage of doing shopping in the local book shops. About 5pm the rain had stopped and the sun broke through the clouds and the evening was the better part of the day so far as the
weather was concerned. In the evening Robert took Allison and I to Lossiemouth to visit John and Heather and the girls. It wonderful to be able to see them again this was our second visit this year to their new home in Lossiemouth at our time of visit you could see the east beech from there back garden. During our visit I was able to show heather Twitter and also my website. On the way back to Elgin I noticed how free the night sky was from light pollution this really is a big problem in oxford.
Thursday we woke to a better day the weather was more settled and at least it was dry but it always seemed to threaten rain but this never happened. This was our last full day Allison and I took the bus to Lossiemouth we walked from the west beech round to the harbour calling in to the café the service was very slow indeed we waited over half an hour to order we settled for hot drinks and cake. We had intended to have gone in for lunch. When we left the harbour café the weather was changing the wind was getting up and blowing a gale
so we headed back to Elgin. After dinner with Allison’s Mum and Brother Robert I went down to Kings mills on an evening photo-shoot the sun was laying low in the west and was acting as a flood light on Elgin Cathedral
I was able to take advantage and I took some really good photographs.
Friday we woke to wonderful sunshine the light was great and I would have liked to have gone on a photo-shoot over at Spyne palace but unfortunately this was our last few hours in Elgin and after breakfast we went by car to Inverness airport The journey was very nice and we liked seeing the new born lambs and pigs in the fields we noticed snow on the hills around Inverness. We said fair well to Allison’s mum and to Mary John’s mum after booking in for the midday flight we went to the restaurant for fresh coffee and Danish pastries and to read the day’s newspapers I read the Scotsman while Allison read the Times. There was to be one last treat for us and this was when the plane took off we had clear views over Inverness and our flight path was down
Loch Ness and over the Cairngorm mountains. We landed at London Gatwick in heavy rain but was home again in Oxford before 5pm.
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